A Career Made From Scratch

Dave Workman, co-owner of the iconic Flat Rock Village Bakery, maintains a surprisingly low profile at one of the Village’s most high-profile businesses. His quiet and calm demeanor stands in stark contrast to the perpetual churn of activity swirling around him in the bustling kitchen of one of the area’s most successful bakeries.

Focused on the details of managing a burgeoning bakery business, Dave is frequently found in the back of the bakery checking on his homemade soups or peering into the wood-fired brick oven to check on a pizza. At the end of the day, Dave Workman’s commitment and passion is for excellent food and satisfied customers; not personal accolades or recognition.

Dave and his partner, Scott Unfried, own the Flat Rock Bakery, Fletcher Village Bakery, and West First Wood-fired Pizza in downtown Hendersonville. Dave manages the bakeries and Scott has primary responsibility for West First Wood-fired. Dave is also currently in the process of opening a new bakery in Brevard early in the summer of 2022.

Dave grew up near Hartford, Connecticut, and earned an economics degree from the University of Hartford. After graduation, he landed a job with Hartford Insurance in their annuity department. But he soon grew restless and sensed that his life was headed in a different direction.  “It was fine,” he explains, “but I knew that I didn’t want to do that kind of work forever.”

In the mid-1990s, believing that there was something more rewarding out in the world for him, he traveled across the continent and ended up doing volunteer work in Washington State. From there he moved to Missoula, Montana where he began to seriously pursue his growing interest in baking. Hours happily spent in the kitchen made him realize that he wanted to learn more about the ancient and essential art of baking.

Motivated to gain experience, Dave talked his way into a job at a small bakery in Missoula. He worked with bread and pastries and became familiar with the basics of operating a bakery. Although he had no way of knowing at the time, he was building the foundation of a skill set that would lead to a very successful career.

Within a year, he and his wife at the time, moved to Birmingham, Alabama so that she could attend graduate school. Once again, Dave found work in a bakery and continued to develop and hone his skills in a commercial kitchen. 

When not working, Dave enjoyed the outdoors and started exploring western NC on weekends. After graduation, the couple moved to Asheville and Dave found work at City Bakery in Asheville.  During this time he met and became friends with Scott Unfried. Scott took over the Flat Rock Village Bakery location from Starr Teel in 2001 and was looking for a partner to help start a new venture.  “Scott wanted to open West First Wood-Fired Pizza downtown and he wanted a partner. So I jumped on board,” explains Dave. The year was 2005.

Dave’s decision to join forces with Scott was the culmination of a decade of pursuing his passion and gaining the skills and experience necessary to take the next big step. It is that passion for baking that keeps him motivated 17 years later. “My work has always just spoken to me,” he says. “My work brings joy to people and good food is an essential part of life. I think that’s what keeps me going.”

When asked why he thinks his bakery is so popular, he points to a recipe simple on its face, but something that is not always easy to achieve.  “I think it's the quality of the baked goods - the bread, the pastries, the pizzas. Everything is made from scratch each day. It’s hard to find anything like that around here.” 

Dave also credits the quality of his ingredients for the bakery’s success. “All of our flours are organic. Most of the produce is organic. All the eggs are local free-range eggs. The milk and cream is from Mills River Creamery.”  Local suppliers are also a priority for Dave. “I go out of my way with my purchasing decisions to make things as clean, healthy, and as local as possible.”

Perhaps the signature feature of the bakery is it’s wood-fired brick oven - a type of cooking Dave had not utilized before his partnership at Flat Rock Village Bakery. Part science and part art, cooking in a wood-fired oven has been an enjoyable experience for Dave. “It’s an old world way of doing things and it requires more skill. But it's much more satisfying. ” 

Sometimes Dave is surprised with how busy the small bakery has become through the years. The small space belies the prodigious volume of business they do each year. “Our location - the tiny hole in the wall sort of atmosphere - works somehow. I don't always understand where all the people are coming from.”

Part of the bakery’s success can be attributed to sharing space with another Flat Rock icon - The Wrinkled Egg.  A large door opens between the two businesses and customers continuously flow back and forth between the two shops. Dave enjoys the symbiotic relationship with The Wrinkled Egg and its owner, Virginia Spigener. “Over the years we've gotten to know each other pretty well and share advice. The businesses help each other. There's no doubt about it.”

Dave also appreciates being part of Flat Rock’s famed Little Rainbow Row and gives credit to Starr Teel for the vision and dedication to building a go-to destination for residents and visitors alike. “Rainbow Row is incredible. I completely respect everything Starr has accomplished here. I was just lucky enough to walk into his vision and become part of it.”

The bakeries in Flat Rock and Fletcher have 30+ employees and managing a growing business is difficult in the best of times. During the pandemic it’s been exponentially more challenging. “I’ve been a partner since 2005, and the last two years were by far the most difficult,” Dave says. “I’d say my work/life balance has been way out of whack. My wife would agree with that. My kids would agree with that.” 

Dave has two daughters, Izzy who is in college and Iris who is a senior in high school. He’s married to Miriam Sollaum who also has her own business, The Runner’s Mechanic, a service that specializes in the treatment of running injuries, and has two step-children, Roan and Ava. The family enjoys getting outdoors and enjoying the natural beauty of the North Carolina mountains.

Dave’s low-key personality conceals a determination to follow through on his commitment to feeding his customers. “There were times last year when I was in here every single day because if I didn't come in, we wouldn't have been open.”  When other restaurants were forced to close down due to the pandemic, Dave’s determined nature kicked in.  “I just couldn't imagine closing unless you know, there's just absolutely no other way.” He laughs about it now, “I’m pretty stubborn about staying open. I just didn't want COVID to get the best of us.”

Despite all the pandemic challenges, Flat Rock Village Bakery has continued to thrive. When all was said and done, Dave was “shocked” to find out that his sales in a pandemic-plagued 2020 were the same as 2019. He credits the bakery's ability to adapt to new ways of serving customers with take-out orders and curbside pickup for the bakery’s success when other restaurants were struggling to keep their doors open.

As the world slowly emerges from the pandemic, Dave is ready to move forward and is busy with his plans to open a third bakery in Brevard this summer.  The new business will be on Asheville Highway near the entrance to Pisgah National Forest and will also feature a wood-fired brick oven. “I’m super excited about the new location. It will be an adventure.”

The bakery’s bread production will be moved from Flat Rock to the new location. Dave is quick to point out, however, that fresh bread will be delivered from Brevard to Flat Rock each morning and the menu at both locations will remain unchanged. “This will free up space in our very small Flat Rock kitchen. We're so busy as a cafe with lunch and pizzas and sandwiches and the change will improve our ability to serve our customers.”

After 17 years as an owner of a bakery, Dave Workman doesn’t foresee stepping away from his businesses anytime soon. “I love it. And it’s all I know how to do now,” he says with a wry grin. “It’s all I want to do. I just want it to be easier than it has been for the past two years.”

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Flat Rock Village Bakery is open seven days a week, from 8 am to 5 pm each day.